(A conversation via Zoom, of course.)
The name of thecouturier Ann Lowewas floated, and Prempeh said something to the effect of: Whos that?
As Prempeh says, By seeing all of these designers together, it really highlights the problems.
Ann Lowe fitting a dress.
I think Ive always been interested in hidden stories.
The depth of research involved in this book is pretty astonishing.
How did you break down that process so it felt manageable?
Charlene Prempeh.
Luckily, I am the queen of spreadsheets.
So instead, I had to spend my time really thinking about which stories I wanted to pursue.
Theres a section on the first ladies of America, and the role of Black design within that space.
Gando Primary School by Diébédo Francis Kéré.
Was there a point where you had to force yourself to stop digging?
I mean, when my editor said, Okay, its time!
The hope is that it can serve as a catalyst for other discussions and other research and other perspectives.
Paul R. Williams in front of the Theme Building at LAX.
I was super interested in the work of Norma Sklarek in particular, who Id never heard of before.
Did you notice any disparity between the information or records of their work that were available versus the men?
With Ann Lowe, for example, a big part of that story is that she became bankrupt.
Marlboro advertisment, “Where the flavor is,” by Emmett McBain, 1972.
It wasnt like she was going to be automatically good with money.
But at each point she was very entrepreneurial.
It didnt work out for her, but the effort was truly there.
Grace Jones wearing an Eiffel Tower hat designed by Patrick Kelly.
When I was looking at all these designers, that was something that really resonated.
But underestimate Black women at your peril, because all of these women were brilliant.
Was it important to you to leaven the book with those moments of humor too?
Joyce Bryant wearing a ‘Tight-Tight’ dress by Zelda Wynn Valdes.
The chapters on the cartoonists like Jackie Ormes and Liz Montague were very amusing.
That was really important.
I think the first drafts early on were probably quite dry.
Bianca Saunders spring 2021 collection, “The Ideal Man.”
Because there is a real absurdity to racismlike, it doesnt make any sense.
And some of the stories, the way they play out is funny.
Any one of these designers could fill a whole book very easily.
But by seeing all of these designers together, it really highlights the problems.
You realize that actually, this is its own entire space that deserves and requires analysis.
This interview has been edited and condensed for clarity.
