Theres a smiley yellow leather jacket from 1992; a shirt with the archangel Gabriel exclaiming Yo, Mary!

Im obsessed with religious attire, Appiolaza, 52, says.

Non ce creativita senza caos, Franco famously said, and Appiolaza plunges into a similar delight in disorder.

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ALIVE AND KICKINGAppiolaza—who has led Moschino since January of last year—inside the label’s Milan studio with model Matilde. Photographed by Federico Ciamei.

I knew I needed to reformulate Francos sense of chaos into my own.

In some ways, Appiolazas new work feels almost like a collaboration with the legendary Franco.

This is what I discovered opening the vaults: How forward-thinking he was for his time, Appiolaza says.

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FULL THROTTLEModel Elaine Irwin wears a Moschino Couture shirt and Moschino Cheap & Chic pants and jacket. Photographed by Max Vadukul,Vogue,January 1992.

And then you see his shows….

He was putting so many references together.

FULL THROTTLEModel Elaine Irwin wears a Moschino Couture shirt and Moschino Cheap & Chic pants and jacket.

Photographed by Max Vadukul,Vogue,January 1992.

Nearby is the Italian-flag-themed gown from a 1994 Moschino collection, a starting point for Appiolazas debut.

We closed the last show with a series of deconstructed tubinos, Appiolaza says.

I wanted this juxtaposition of something very simple with something from a different era.

Or Francos military-style survival jacket from 1991, with each pocket containing a beauty product instead of a weapon.

Moschino used real trash bagshe was asking, What is luxury?

Appiolaza is already taking notes.