Theres a smiley yellow leather jacket from 1992; a shirt with the archangel Gabriel exclaiming Yo, Mary!
Im obsessed with religious attire, Appiolaza, 52, says.
Non ce creativita senza caos, Franco famously said, and Appiolaza plunges into a similar delight in disorder.

ALIVE AND KICKINGAppiolaza—who has led Moschino since January of last year—inside the label’s Milan studio with model Matilde. Photographed by Federico Ciamei.
I knew I needed to reformulate Francos sense of chaos into my own.
In some ways, Appiolazas new work feels almost like a collaboration with the legendary Franco.
This is what I discovered opening the vaults: How forward-thinking he was for his time, Appiolaza says.

FULL THROTTLEModel Elaine Irwin wears a Moschino Couture shirt and Moschino Cheap & Chic pants and jacket. Photographed by Max Vadukul,Vogue,January 1992.
And then you see his shows….
He was putting so many references together.
FULL THROTTLEModel Elaine Irwin wears a Moschino Couture shirt and Moschino Cheap & Chic pants and jacket.
Photographed by Max Vadukul,Vogue,January 1992.
Nearby is the Italian-flag-themed gown from a 1994 Moschino collection, a starting point for Appiolazas debut.
We closed the last show with a series of deconstructed tubinos, Appiolaza says.
I wanted this juxtaposition of something very simple with something from a different era.
Or Francos military-style survival jacket from 1991, with each pocket containing a beauty product instead of a weapon.
Moschino used real trash bagshe was asking, What is luxury?
Appiolaza is already taking notes.