But the glories of those dresses and capes and coats stayed with me like a language of feeling.
Photographed by Steven Meisel.
IN BLOOMModel Maty Fall is utterly in her (flower) power, wearing the dress today.
OFF THE GRIDA round-shouldered plaid coat, high heels (from The Arc London), and a rather high hat from Nicolas Ghesquière’s fall 2006 collection for Balenciaga are justas jaunty nearly 20 years on. Ferragamo skirt. Photographed by Théo de Gueltzl. Fashion Editor: Amanda Harlech.Vogue, April 2025.
Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello dressing gown.
LINE ITEMPradas famous plastic raincoat from the labels fall 2002 collection.
Photo: David Sims/Art Partner/Trunk Archive.
ORIGIN STORYLinda Evangelista in a seamless, bias-cut dress from John Galliano’s fall 1995 collection (from the Alexander Fury archive), inspired by the heady passions of Mexican actress Dolores del Río. Photographed by Steven Meisel.
Model Ajok Daing appears through the looking glass.
Givenchy by John Galliano haute couture hat from fall 1996.
New York, of course, was also a great city to find vintage.
IN BLOOMModel Maty Fall is utterly in her (flower) power, wearing the dress today. Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello dressing gown.
I think Karl loved the mix I brought into the studio.
(Subliminally, though, I think he enjoyed seeing unexpected combinations.)
CONVERSATION PIECESFall leans into the layers of a Loewe spring 2016 dress from 20Age Archive.
LINE ITEMPrada’s famous plastic raincoat from the label’s fall 2002 collection. Photo: David Sims/Art Partner/Trunk Archive.
READ ALL ABOUT ITModel Edie Campbell stops the presses in the Stephen Jones for John Galliano hat seen above.
Photographed in 2013 by Steven Meisel.
FIVE OF CUPSLoewe coat.
GOING CLEARFall gets transparent in the same raincoat, a Sylva top and leggings, a 1992 Hermès Kelly crocodile bag (loaned by Alisha Brittan), and a Vionnet bracelet from Paumé Los Angeles. Model Ajok Daing appears through the looking glass.
Christian Dior Haute Couture fall 1956 dress; The Classified.
UPSTAIRS, DOWNSTAIRSVivienne Westwood fall 1994 bustle; Alexander Fury archive.
Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquiere fall 2006 shoes; The Arc London.
PRINTED MATTERFall absorbs a few bumps in a top and skirt from Comme des Garçons’s legendary Body Meets Dress, Dress Meets Body collection for spring 1997. Givenchy by John Galliano haute couture hat from fall 1996.
Fendi spring 2008 bag in collaboration with Lisio Foundation.
Prada top and tights.
I have always believed that there is something timeless about haute couturesomething which can withstand the frenzy of trend.
CONVERSATION PIECESFall leans into the layers of a Loewe spring 2016 dress from 20Age Archive.
The trick is to shift it with a differently proportioned shoe, or simply a great sweater.
And the reaction is always the same: Where is that from?
TAKE TWOAjok Daing (left) wears a Cristobal Balenciaga Haute Couture 1953 skirt suit; The Classified.
READ ALL ABOUT ITModel Edie Campbell stops the presses in the Stephen Jones for John Galliano hat seen above. Photographed in 2013 by Steven Meisel.
Fall in an Azzedine Alaia 1986 jacket; Amanda Harlech archive.
Louis Vuitton bodysuit and shoes.
Comme des Garcons spring 2017 hat; 20Age Archive.
FIVE OF CUPSLoewe coat. Christian Dior Haute Couture fall 1956 dress; The Classified. Agnelle gloves. Phoebe Philo heels.
STATE OF THE ARTSMaison Martin Margiela spring 2008 dress; Baraboux.
Antique ring; Amanda Harlech archive.
Quite often, within a year or two that piece becomes gold dust.
UPSTAIRS, DOWNSTAIRSVivienne Westwood fall 1994 bustle; Alexander Fury archive. Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquière fall 2006 shoes; The Arc London. Fendi spring 2008 bag in collaboration with Lisio Foundation. Prada top and tights.
ERAS TOURAlexander McQueen fall 1996 jacket loaned by the Honorable Daphne Guinness.
Vintage Chanel necklace; Found and Vision.
Vintage Chanel necklace; Susan Caplan.
FULL STRETCHChristian Dior Haute Couture fall 2012 navy blue embroidered cut-off ball gown with black wool cigarette pants from the Dior Heritage collection, Paris. Zimmerli tank top.
Vintage Givenchy necklace; 4element.
In practical terms, of course, vintage pieces can never be as robust as something made recently.
FAIR PLAYDaing wears a Christian Lacroix Haute Couture fall 1997 dress; Baraboux.
TAKE TWOAjok Daing (left) wears a Cristobal Balenciaga Haute Couture 1953 skirt suit; The Classified. Prada blouse. Paula Rowan gloves. Phoebe Philo shoes. Fall in an Azzedine Alaïa 1986 jacket; Amanda Harlech archive. Louis Vuitton bodysuit and shoes. Comme des Garçons spring 2017 hat; 20Age Archive. Phoebe Philo brooch.
Vionnet bracelets; paumelosangeles.com.
More recently minted vintage, meanwhile, simply needs to be worn in a new way.
it’s possible for you to play different music forevereven if the keys are the same.
STATE OF THE ARTSMaison Martin Margiela spring 2008 dress; Baraboux. Hermès top. Manolo Blahnik shoes. Calzedonia socks. Antique ring; Amanda Harlech archive.
Produced by LG Studio.
Set Design: Danny Hyland.
ERAS TOURAlexander McQueen fall 1996 jacket loaned by the Honorable Daphne Guinness. Marni skirt. Chanel necklace. Vintage Chanel necklace; Found and Vision. Vintage Chanel necklace; Susan Caplan. Vintage Givenchy necklace; 4element. Paula Rowan gloves.
FAIR PLAYDaing wears a Christian Lacroix Haute Couture fall 1997 dress; Baraboux. Fall in a John Galliano fall 1995 jacket (Amanda Harlech archive) and dress (Alexander Fury archive). Vionnet bracelets; paumelosangeles.com.
