We made the doublet together in stone leather from a historical pattern, Westwoods widower said backstage today.
It was in the show in 91 or 92.
The central motif of this collection was, absolutely, the codpiece.

There was a loose re-creation of that Moroni starting point in Look 6s razor-sliced doublet and thigh-high cavalier boots.
We drifted toward 18th- and 19th-century widows weeds via two haunting gowns made in Huddersfield-milled black silk-mohair.
A mirror-beaded T-shirt reflected 15th-century armor through a 20th-century military-issue staple.

Ripped workwear was overdyed to update a pattern based on 16th-century decorative brocade.
Whatever was in that codpiece, Smiths walk took balls.













