David Martin
ODDAhas proved itself to be the indie magazine that could.
Inside, Pattinson was featured in dialogue with his friend, the Dior Men creative director Kim Jones.
This issue follows previous ones with the likes of Gaetano Pesce and Jonathan Anderson.
David Martin
What makesODDAa playground for creativity and collaboration?
Maybe it starts with the title.
Martin sent his drawings to Nicola Formichetti who suggested he enroll at Central Saint Martins.
“I love what I do. I’m excited to see…the reaction of people, the emotions, every time that we launch a magazine. For example, with the last issue, the first men’s magazine we have done, with Robert Pattinson on the cover, so many were excited and commenting about the nails with his mini faces, his expression, and that he looks excited for that picture.”
And so he started at ground zero, circa 2009, documenting his discoveries on a blog.
At the very beginning it was pure discovery, he says of his blogs early days.
I was very passionate about photography.
Esther Cañadas photographed by Vitali Gelwich.
I was absolutely fascinated by the fashion at the time, which was very architectural.
It is pretty complicated to know how this industry works because everything is so secretive.
ODDAis an antidote to that kind of exclusionary thinking.
Starting in 2021ODDAhas partnered with J.W. Anderson a special Pride issue. A portion of the proceeds are donated to an organization supporting the LBGTQIA community.
The vibe is happy, horny, inclusive, and celebratory.
What is an odist if not a fanboy or girl?
While Martin seems to be everywhere all the time, he remains a private person.
Fernando Lindez photograpjed by Jaime Huidobro.
I love what I do.
Esther Canadas photographed by Vitali Gelwich.
Vogue: Why does print still matter?
“In 2020 we did a cover with Stevie Wonder, and [he was] in conversation with Stevie Wonder with Timothée Chalamet. It was during the time of the Black Lives Matter, Trump, and COVID, and for me that was a very, very, very important conversation coming from two people of completely different backgrounds, educations, and situations in life, with one of the most important singers of our history together with probably the most acclaimed new actor in the world, speaking the same language. They never met before and had a two-hour Zoom conversation where Stevie Wonder was singing to Timothée and Timothée, was singing to him. For me, that conversation is an example of what we have to do together to change the future. I want to believe fashion is becoming more open and more welcoming to everyone.”
The fashion industry was very much obsessed with the development of digital and then COVID happened.
I think digital at that time suffered a reality check.
If you go to your phone, for example, how many pictures do you have?
For the 10th anniversary of the magazine, artist Gaetano Pesce, one of its cover subjects, crafted three limited-edition face boxes that were launched at Art Basel, 2022.
I haveIm not exaggeratingmore than 200,000 images on my iPhone.
I think it has a completely different emotion behind it.
But I think both of them complement each other and its very important to have [both].
How has your view of fashion changed sinceODDAs launch?
Fashion today is not just that dress or that bag that you want to sell.
Brands like Louis Vuitton and Dior are starting to sell a full lifestyle.
[All digital] is not something that the new generations even want.
Connecting to people is the most important thing and that has driven me to do the magazine.
Im still here after so many years, because I love what I do.
I think fashion is becoming more open and more welcoming.
Thats what I stand for with the magazine.
That starts from the name, it is the same in every language.
My idea is when people get the magazine and they open it they are like, Oh wow!
But we always want to pay homage to heritage.
Starting in 2021ODDAhas partnered with J.W.
Anderson a special Pride issue.
A portion of the proceeds are donated to an organization supporting the LBGTQIA community.
Talk aboutODDAs queer perspective.
Why is there more openness about the subject in general in fashion?
In my first years in this industry I was fascinated by Alasdair McLellans work.
Fashion is just fashion, but out in the world it was very eccentric.
And I think that has changed now.
I was still not finding what I wanted to see.
[I felt] the model had to be straight.
Why a straight model?
From there we started to explore body inclusion and freedom in nudity, especially nudity with men.
What are you looking forward to this menswear season?
Theres been a lot of excitement about menswear recently.
Do you think things have actually changed on the street?
I didnt see a single woman with bags in those streets.
And I saw that 80% of young kids were buying fashion.
Thats something that I dont remember happening before, and the reason I decided to launchODDAKorea.
Community has helped so much for masculinity to be more open.
We are the way we are, but we are not pretending that you are the same way.
We are who we are and we are all human beings.
I think that men today…want to feel comfortable and they want to represent themselves.
Menswear has grown so much because its more nourished than it was before.
Many in the new generations prefer to have less money but a quality way of life.
They prefer to have a job that is less powerful but live happier; its the same in fashion.
I prefer to work with others and maybe I have less jobs but Im happy.
That is one of the biggest changes that I see in the industry and Im so excited for it.
[The industry] takes so long to accept others or give validation to others.
What makes a good designer, in your opinion?
I think he was one of the first designers to really connect with everyone on a different level.
He did a lot of things that people werent taking into consideration before.
What are your thoughts on Pharrell joining Louis Vuitton?
How would you like to see the industry change?
I think fashion makes people talk and makes people feel and makes people change their opinions.
The industry has to change so many behaviors and attitudes towards others.
That is a perfect reflection of why people see fashion as something superficial.
[We need to] to start to be an industry that is welcoming.
We need to start to be nicer to each other.
For me, that conversation is an example of what we have to do together to change the future.
I want to believe fashion is becoming more open and more welcoming to everyone.
This interview has been edited and condensed for clarity.
