And yet it wasnt quite business as usualwhat is these days?

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AtJean Paul Gaultierby Simone Rocha and atViktor & Rolf, the support beams were exposed.

At Couture Control and Chaos—A Reflection on the Spring 2024 Season

Photographed by Acielle/ Style Du Monde

In the place of full-on display were dresses with filigree treatments that revealed the skin below with extreme delicacy.

Some of the looks atArmani Prive, for example, were as delicate as spun sugar.

Swansdown, or materials that had that effect, also added to the airiness that breezed through some collections.

Colleagues on the ground at the spring 2024 couture collections reported a sense of paring back at the shows.

Simultaneously there was a gathering of fragments in bricolage designs that conveyed a power-in-numbers or parts-making-a-whole kind of symbolism.

This is not that moment.

When people think about the future, I think the picture is very bland and minimalist, she toldVogue.

A bricolage of thought and materials, what an interesting way to think of continuity and progress.

Its a Barbie World

Doll-small waists and Mae West curves contrast the Ozempic and the fecund.

Cruella Strikes Back

Tough times call for inky play, high collars, and sweeping skirts.

Gather Around

Many parts make a whole.

Lady Godiva

Does the appearance of delicate not-quite-naked dresses hint at a red-carpet revolution?

Work an Angle

Fashion or architecture?

Designers created dresses with jutting corners and intriguing deconstructions.

Tinsel Town

For magpies and the modish, metallic shine.

Plush With Greatness

Unusual textures of great inventiveness.

Shadow Play

Color gradients reemerge.