This article originally appeared on Vogue Business.
Missing from said headlines: any, and all, small labels on the calendar.
But there is no such thing as dedicated New York or London mens weeks.
Photo by Lyvans Boolaky/Getty Images; Photo: Valerio Mezzanotti / Courtesy of Kartik Research; Photo: Marcel Nestler / Courtesy of Arturo Obegero.
At least not anymore.
Brands eventually left for greener pastures in Paris and Milan or folded their menswear collections into co-ed shows.
Yet despite the amount of small and independent labels on either calendar, neither city has done so successfully.
Photo: Owenscorp / Courtesy of Rick Owens
Emerging labels, then, need to get creative to get noticed.
The pressure exists, but I dont know if it reflects in the clothes.
Were an independent brand; we need to sell to exist.
But thats not what we are, he says.
The designer told me he is doing away with wholesale altogether, moving to a made-to-measure approach.
Bridal has become an important category for Obegero as has dressing celebrities and performers.
He also skipped the winter season in January.
It is extremely complicated to survive in this business.
Im dressing the biggest stars, yet Im still working from home with a small home sewing machine.
The reality of a young designer is not whats shown or worshipped on Instagram.
It is part of a bigger push to make the brand a key part of culture.
Small brands arent afforded that same ability.
Kinori has made a name for himself in the menswear circle for his slow and craft-driven approach to fashion.
Its not worth fighting against that, says Kinori.
This is why its important for these designers to take an off-centre approach during the week.
Obegeros presentation was well attended and well received.
Maybe not during fashion week, but certainly beyond.
Isnt that what matters most?
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