The life, work, and singular persona ofRobert Mapplethorpehave been immortalized thoroughly over the years.
There has also been the fashion.
Projection of a Robert Mapplethorpe self-portrait during a protest at the Corcoran Gallery of Art.
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
Photographed June 30, 1989, in Washington, DC.
This was, and still is, the ultimate leather daddy uniform.
Mapplethorpes work was complicated, controversial, and at times problematic.
Projection of a Robert Mapplethorpe self-portrait during a protest at the Corcoran Gallery of Art. Photographed June 30, 1989, in Washington, DC.
His fetishization of the Black male body found fair and exact criticism by the likes of Essex Hemphill.
Fashion, in a way, has treated Mapplethropes work in the same way.
Scroll through to discover how designers have referenced Mapplethorpe over the years.
Ludovic de Saint Sernin, fall 2024 ready-to-wear
Mapplethorpe has always been my hero, the designer toldVogues Mark Holgate in an interview.
Prior to todays fall 2024 show, De Saint Sernin referenced Mapplethrope once before for his spring 2023 collection.
The opening look nodded to the photographers personal uniform in the 70s.
Ludovic de Saint Sernin, fall 2024 ready-to-wear
We arrived together from Barbados and Robert started saying, Can I photograph you?
And I said, No, no photographs.
We are here on vacationlets have fun.
Ludovic de Saint Sernin, fall 2024 ready-to-wear
I said, All right.
And we did that one in the hammock.
When we arrived back in New York, Robert asked if he could take a formal portrait.
Ludovic de Saint Sernin, spring 2023 ready-to-wear
He used that photograph, the one with the veil and the hat, in all his books.
It was so much fun to do.
Each could be a Mapplethorpe sitter.
Carolina Herrera, fall 1989 ready-to-wear
The billowing shirts had shades of Mapplethorpes famous muse Patti Smith on herHorsesalbum cover.
Simons had to clear third-party rights with all the sitters before reproducing their images.
It began a dialogue that resulted in an immersion on Simonss part in Mapplethorpes work.
Carolina Herrera, fall 1989 ready-to-wear
It is the story of Mapplethorpe and Patti [Smith].
This sensibility is palpable in Di Felices cut, but also in his accessorizing.
I read it in high school, and thats when I knew New York was the place for me.
Raf Simons, spring 2017 menswear
At home, because of the coronavirus quarantine, Ive picked up this book for the third time.
His leather jockstraps and codpieces, harnesses, and sex toys work as jewelry nods to Mapplethorpes own style.
Gucci, spring 2019 ready-to-wear.
Raf Simons, spring 2017 menswear
Gucci, fall 2021 ready-to-wear.
Gucci, spring 2022 ready-to-wear.
His delicate still life images of flowers set the tone for this lineup.
Raf Simons, spring 2017 menswear
Preen by Thornton Bregazzi, fall 2007 ready-to-wear.
Hisfall 2019 lineupwas inspired by Mapplethorpe and the way his work fetishized leather and biker gear.
Altuzarra, fall 2019 ready-to-wear.
Ann Demeulemeester, spring 2018 menswear
Jonathan Anderson
Andersonis another avid collector, having works by Mapplethorpe in his collection.
One can sense the photographers influence in Andersons often fetish-y leatherwear.
JW Anderson, fall 2023 menswear.
Ann Demeulemeester, spring 2018 menswear
JW Anderson, fall 2018 menswear.
Shawn Mendes at the 2021 Met Gala.
Courrèges, spring 2024 menswear
Courrèges, spring 2024 ready-to-wear
Courrèges, spring 2024 menswear
Proenza Schouler, sprong 2020 ready-to-wear
Proenza Schouler, sprong 2020 ready-to-wear
Gucci, spring 2019 ready-to-wear.
Gucci, fall 2021 ready-to-wear.
Gucci, spring 2022 ready-to-wear.
Preen by Thornton Bregazzi, fall 2007 ready-to-wear.
Preen by Thornton Bregazzi, fall 2007 ready-to-wear.
Altuzarra, fall 2019 ready-to-wear.
Altuzarra, fall 2019 ready-to-wear.
Altuzarra, fall 2019 ready-to-wear.
JW Anderson, fall 2023 menswear.
JW Anderson, fall 2018 menswear.
Shawn Mendes at the 2021 Met Gala.
