I should have worn a tie!

my friend lamented, looking around at what was admittedly a beautiful dining room.

We laughed at the time.

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Photographed by Theo Wenner,Vogue,August 2017

I really dont think it matters, James.

That lady over there is literally in leggings.

But reflecting on therestaurantafterwards, I couldnt help but feel he had a point.

For years, I applauded thishailed it as a sign that eating out was becoming ever more egalitarian.

Its a fundamental part of their magic.

This is true whether the menu is $400 or $40 a head.

For most people these days, eating in restaurants is a luxury.

Dressing up is part of that or it should be.

But its more than that, for me.

Above all, though, its justnice.

Im not arguing for a full tie and suit, or heels and a dressy dressunless thats your thing.

No one should be forced into wearing something that makes them physically or psychologically uncomfortable.