I should have worn a tie!
my friend lamented, looking around at what was admittedly a beautiful dining room.
We laughed at the time.

Photographed by Theo Wenner,Vogue,August 2017
I really dont think it matters, James.
That lady over there is literally in leggings.
But reflecting on therestaurantafterwards, I couldnt help but feel he had a point.
For years, I applauded thishailed it as a sign that eating out was becoming ever more egalitarian.
Its a fundamental part of their magic.
This is true whether the menu is $400 or $40 a head.
For most people these days, eating in restaurants is a luxury.
Dressing up is part of that or it should be.
But its more than that, for me.
Above all, though, its justnice.
Im not arguing for a full tie and suit, or heels and a dressy dressunless thats your thing.
No one should be forced into wearing something that makes them physically or psychologically uncomfortable.