Sit up straight, said mom to Mabel, and keep your elbows off the table!
My brothers and I still chant it nowin jest, of course.
For one thing, were adults, and for another, who cares anymore?

Photographed by Daniel Martensen,Vogue,December 2022
Take those elbows, for example.
Its more diverse, more inclusive, led by good produce rather than propriety.
to the lucky recipient.
We live in a city in which even pasta and cocktails are designed to be shared.
Its a real buzz barrier one restaurateur told me; an insidious presence complained another.
It offends something at our very core.
So I welcome the wane of certain, silly table manners.
Put your elbows on the table by all means, Mabelbut put away your phone.