Dawn had barely broken on the Hawaiian island of Oahu, but Carissa Moores energy was virtually infectious.

Even at 6:30 a.m., the 31-year-old world champion surfer seemed game for anythingincluding a 6:30 a.m. phone call.

I woke up half an hour ago.

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Steven Lippman

I made myself a cup of matcha.

Im ready, she said.

I sort of like being in that positionit takes some of the pressure off, she explained.

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Ryan Miller

Its a little nerve racking, but also exciting, she added.

The waves in Tahiti are really tricky.

Its really hard sometimes!

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Ryan Miller

Ten minutes isnt that long, but some days it can feel like forever, she laughed again.

When you slow down, you start to notice more around you, Moore said.

Hawaii is more than just where I grew upits part of who I am.

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Courtesy of Rizzoli New York

And it made me the surfer I am today, she said.

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Seth Moniz, Noa Mizuno, and Josh Moniz. North Shore,O‘ahu, Hawai‘i, 2009.

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Carissa Moore, Maui Pro presented by Roxy, World Surf League Women’s Championship Tour, Kapalua, Maui, Hawai‘i, 2021.

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Trevor Moran