Street-fighting man: Tommy Hilfiger on Seventh Avenue with his new line or womenswear.
They are deciding which designs to produce and sell to the masses for fall 97.
As two women talk the assembled employees through the proposed designs.
Street-fighting man: Tommy Hilfiger on Seventh Avenue with his new line or womenswear.
Suddenly, one of the men sitting at the head table complains of repetition.
But I think theres another problem, says Hilfiger.
The use of the same Hilfiger athletics logo over and over again creates a perception that theres repetition.
In actuality theres a lot of variation in fabrics.
But maybe we should do some changes on the logo.
Then pick our spots for the big ones.
And the big ones should be really big and special.
But we shouldnt do it onevery single thing.
Because I know your customers and the buyers are going to want more of the heavier logos.
Is there going to be a surprise under here?
he says as he moves on to the next shirt.
He peels off the logo and sticks the tiny rubber logo on the blank shirt.
he says with a big, toothy grin.
This looks so great, doesnt it?
It looks very clean.
The guy who wants tons of big logos has it already.
He bought it from us.
Or hell buy it from somebody else.
Before the meeting is over, Tommy Hilfiger definitively orders companywide downsizing of all logos.
The reason for it is that it represents all the shit we dont have.
Were not ripped-dungarees-rock n roll-alternative-culture people.
Part of the fantasy of fashion is about being successful.
I put this on, Im gettin laid.
Not because Im cool and raggedy but because Im cool and clean.
Because Iwantto buy into this culture.
He lucked out in a way, says a stylist who has worked with a lot of rappers.
Hip-hop kids got smarter, and there was sort of a backlash against Ralph Lauren.
Tommy, instead of just exploiting the hip-hop community, has also figured outwhythey like what he does.
Hes bought into it, and his designers are hip enough to appreciate it.
Tommys success reaffirms for me what Im trying to get done.
You better be nice to himtoday.
The trick for a modern sportswear company like Tommy Hilfiger is to create something alternative while giving up nothing.
On the other hand, preppy is about classic and forever.
Hilfiger must walk that fine line between classic and modern without losing either audience.
We both make golf sweaters, thats for sure, says Simmons with a laugh.
And I say, Yeah, right.
Im gonna sell that in the ghetto.
He understands where it fits in.
And thats different from everybody else who does what he does.
Its an amazing company with a lot of sensitivity for a lot of different people.
A tour through company headquartersspread over several floors of two buildings in midtown Manhattanprovides ample proof.
Hilfiger says with obvious affection.
Go put your teeth in.
Jason disappears into an office and reappears smiling a mouthful of gold teeth.
Hilfiger puts his arm around his shoulder and beams like a proud father.
This is Ubis room, Hilfiger says.
Hes a snowboarder, hes a surfer, hes a partyer.
Hes got so many incredible ideas, so we just let him go.
Eventually we make our way to the more serene offices of both Hilfiger and his younger brother Andy.
I never sit at my desk, he says.
Hippo, while Tommy occasionally jams with them.
And then you realize: Theyre justreallynice guys.
Andy knows people in the music business from his days working as a production assistant on music videos.
His other claim to credibility with the hip-hop crowd is that he once lived in uptown Manhattan near Harlem.
Id say, Wow, really?
And theyd show me.
It started around 92 with rapper Grand Puba: Hilfiger on top/Girbaud on the bottom/Polo on the back.
So Id call some of the groups and invite em up.
They approached them, and it turned out to be Grand Pubas group.
became a marketing strategy that has clearly been effective.
Now they dress TLC, Coolio, and the Fugees, among many other groups.
Coolio is also careful to clarify his relationship with the company.
They dont embrace the hip-hop community, he says, they use the hip-hop community.
They know if were out there wearing the clothes, we sell millions for them.
I dont have a contract like Michael Jordan does with Nike, or like models do with designers.
Do you feel pressured to be creatively accepted by the fashion community?
“In the sense that I dont think people expect me to be John Galliano.
So if I give them better than expected, I think theyll be satisfied.
I ask Hilfiger about the crack Ralph Lauren made recently inNew Yorkmagazine that he had stolen my clothes.
But I try hard not to do the same things.
I want to do it my way.
He pauses and leans back in his chair.
Did the comment bother him?
It didnt bother me at all.
If I were Ralph I would feel the same way.
I would feel that this young kid … or person … has really encroached upon my territory.
However, he would never have done rock n roll clothing.
Hilfiger is behind schedule.
As we wait, I ask Toth if it is a challenge to differentiate Hilfiger from other sportswear companies.
That was the beginning of the brand DNAwe uncovered the essence of what Tommy is.
They would say, We have to do a campaign that stands for something everybody wants to do.
They want to be rich.
Or do what Calvin Kleins doingThey want to get laid.
And all they thought about was the sensuousness of Calvin, the wealth of Polo.
People aspire to happiness because everybody wants to be happy, and thats what Tommy projects.
Its not something we invented.
Theres a lot of true camaraderie that we dont have to fake.
I think a lot of that comes through in the images that weve put together.
I think Ralph is jealous.
Hes searching for that young customer Tommyowns.
He cites the recent launch of the Polo Jeans Co. as proof.
Eventually, Hilfiger comes into the room, apologizing for being late.
The team spreads out two versions of the same campaign on the table for him to look at.
One is a group of young people playing a game of tackle football.
I like the mud campaign, says Hilfiger, and everyone nods in agreement.
Thats exactly what it is!
This is a campaign unto itself.
He spreads all the mud pictures out on the floor and looks thoughtfully at them for a minute.
This is fun, though, isnt it?
Nobody has ever done this.
This clearly makes him happy, and he looks up and smiles mischievously.
Something Ralphdefinitelywouldnt do and some of the other competitors wouldnt evenconsider,which is what I like about it.
