Before going, Id been told by a few unrelated people that a safari can be emotional and life-changing.

I was dismissive of these sentiments.

I expected that safari would bememorable, but emotional seemed a bit… grand.

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Photo: Nick Remsen

I think about her often, but especially so on every November 11.

She and I were close.

I was her first grandchild; eventually, shed have six.

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Photo: Nick Remsen

She emphasized a curiosity around it, and this was especially true of birds.

She nurtured this shared interest, and she protected it.

The Bushcamp Company is one of the only groups with permission to function deep within the park itself.

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Photo: Nick Remsen

Okay, said Suzyo, mild-mannered.

He stayed quiet for an extended pause, then: Well look for birds, in honor of her.

Well get to 94 species.

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Photo: Nick Remsen

We might even do it tomorrow.

There are hundreds of bird species here.

And so, the mission started.

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Photo: Nick Remsen

Suzyo said it was a somewhat rare bird to begin with.

We were off to an auspicious beginning.

Both are striking raptors; the latter bird is depicted on Zambias flag.

23: We saw Ground Hornbills, which bounced along the mud, cooing eerily in the sunlight.

Suzyo told me it was highly unusual to see one in broad daylight in this setting.

The most unusual of all the birds wed see.

I know that cant be true, but I like the thought.

Yet the Village Weaver is plainyellow and cute, but not super interesting.

She was just as happy to see them as any other animal that stopped by.

Id like to think my grandmother instilled this love of itall, not just the postcard stuff.

There, they have a gallery of student artwork.

The pieces are for sale.

Most of the artworks showed various illustrations of the game people travel great lengths to see.

Only one, just one, featured a bird.

I brought it back to my apartment in Miami, and its now in my kitchen.

The same that stood out in our goal, the unlikeliest of the 94: a Pells Fishing Owl.

Maybe my grandmother really was watching.