(They even madean appearancein season three ofThe White Lotus.)

Its even welcome because its the hottest time of the year.

Celebrating Songkran now is similar to what we did growing up.

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Photo: Sippakorn Ponpayong

We start at the temple in Elmhurst, Queens.

Most of the prayers are in Pali and Sanskrit, and you literally dont know what youre saying.

What I liked most about these days ofThe White Lotuswere the scenes with the monks.

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Photo: Sippakorn Ponpayong

People dont realize thats such a big thing in Thailand.

Thats rooted in religion.

I attempt to go to the temple every six months; I could go more.

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Photo: Sippakorn Ponpayong

Im a bad Buddhist.

My head chef Dustin Everett is giving a food offering to a monk.

Dustin had never been to the temple before, so all the aunties were side-eyeing him at first.

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Photo: Sippakorn Ponpayong

Then they tasted the food we brought from Fish Cheeks and asked him, Are you single?

All the Thai kids at the restaurant tell Dustin, Youre Thai now.

You bring dishes to the temple to show off your cooking skills.

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Photo: Sippakorn Ponpayong

Its a massive potluck.

We brought Fish Cheeks coconut crab curry, crab fried rice, corn salad, and chicken wings.

These are chefs, we can all help.

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Photo: Sippakorn Ponpayong

She snapped back, I dont need itIm a chef too.

Another lady brought a delicious home-cooked-style jungle curry that I hadnt had in so long.

I kept telling Dustin and Chat to taste it.

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Photo: Sippakorn Ponpayong

Gathering with family and friends is the best part of Songkran.

They took us in and cared for us.

That reminded me that I need to return to Jackson Heights in Queens more.

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Photo: Sippakorn Ponpayong

Its a new beginning, especially when were opening Fish Cheeks Williamsburg.

It felt like starting a new journey.

This was the first Songkran in a while that I got to spend with my mom.

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Photo: Sippakorn Ponpayong

Its almost like a cold porridge eaten with savory dishes.

We created a cocktail version for Fish Cheeks NoHo, available through April 18.

Two new dishes will be exclusive to that location.

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Photo: Sippakorn Ponpayong

Its salty, spicy, and just a little sweetthe perfect dish for sharing at a festive table.

It took us a long time to be brave enough to put that on the menu.