Like any self-respecting designer,Adrian Appiolaza, the Argentinian who took overMoschinolast year, is an avid researcher.
Some use Pinterest and Instagram; othersmost, Id like to thinkfavor Vogue Runway.
But Appiolaza is more analogue in his approach; his research starts with the actual clothes.
Adrian Appiolaza, left, and Ryan Benacer, right.
How it really started is that I began to work and needed to find inspiration.
These interests fed what is now a robust assortment of more than 4,000 pieces.
A wall of archival vests by Franco Moschino.
A wall of archival vests by Franco Moschino.
Dress by Patrick Kelly.
Something they shared from the get-go?
Both he and Appiolaza are frequently seen in Vogue Runways street style photos, often wearing their archive pieces.
Dress by Patrick Kelly.
Balenciaga, fall 2007 shoes by Nicholas Ghesquiere and Pierre Hardy.
I look at it all the time and feel joy, its that kind of obsession.
Jean Paul Gaultier, fall 1985 dress.
Comme des Garçons, spring 1997 “Body Meets Dress, Dress Meets Body” look paired with a Comme des Garçons Homme Plus, spring 2015 shoe.
Maison Margiela, spring 2001 gloves waistcoat.
Jean Paul Goude Violin pants for the 14th of July defile of 1989.
Junya Watanabe, fall 1998 dress.
Comme des Garçons, spring 1997 “Body Meets Dress, Dress Meets Body” look paired with Céline, spring 2013 shoes by Phoebe Philo.
Most of the things I buy are older than me.
Since I never lived those years, Im living through the stories of what people tell me.
This was unreachable for me.
Balenciaga, fall 2007 shoes by Nicholas Ghesquière and Pierre Hardy.
Adrian Appiolaza, left, in Comme des Garcons Homme PLus fall 2020.
Both wear pieces from their archive.
I breathe vintage, so its natural that it comes through my creative and personal language.
Photographed by Alex Huanfa Cheng
Also top of mind is the idea of future vintage.
In this story: Set Design by Pierre-Alexandre Fillaire; Post-production by 4pm studio.
“This to me was the grail of conceptual fashion,” Appiolaza says of this Martin Margiela, fall 1989 broken porcelain waistcoat. “I look at it all the time and feel joy, it’s that kind of obsession.”
Jean Paul Gaultier, fall 1985 dress.
Maison Margiela, spring 2001 gloves waistcoat.
Jean Paul Goude Violin pants for the 14th of July défilé of 1989.
Junya Watanabe, fall 1998 dress.
Adrian Appiolaza, left, in Comme des Garçons Homme PLus fall 2020. Ryan Benacer, right, in an Issey Miyake shirt and Jean Paul Gaultier theater costume from “Pinocchio,” 1998. Both wear pieces from their archive.
A Louis Vuitton x Takashi Murakami trunk (Louis Vuitton, spring 2003) and a Louis Vuitton x Stephen Sprouse (Louis Vuitton, spring 2001) jacket with miscellaneous accessories.
