We were naturally drawn to it, says Nasr of the citys oldest standing French restaurant.

It had to stay open.

They love old-fashioned French cuisine, says Boulud of the chefs new foray.

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Photo: Gentl + Hyers

Theyll have fun going back to the postwar boom of French restaurants in New York.

There are familiar bistro classicslobster salad and hanger steak bearnaise with fritesand throwback dishes like tripes a la mode.

A palate-cleansing spoonful of pastry chef Michelle Palazzos strawberries with sabayon.

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The bar at Le Veau d’Or, a French bistro on East 60th Street.

(And indeed she was).

Back then, the first rule was discretion, says Treboux.

You didnt take pictures,especiallyin French restaurants where men often came with their mistresses.

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Photo: Gentl + Hyers

(The photograph below comes courtesy of the bistros second owners, the Rocheteau family.)

Thankfully, the 55-seat wood-paneled dining room hasnt deviated much from its yesteryear.

Upstairs, a new 20-seat private dining room is set to become a highly-coveted booking.

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Photo: Gentl + Hyers

Softly diffused lighting casts a flatteringly cinematic, peach-hued glow (translation: everyone looks good in here).

We wanted it to feel like it always was but also of today, says Hanson.

Keep your eyes peeled too: old regulars of the haunt will undoubtedly be among the first to arrive.

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Photo: Peter Beard / Courtesy of Eric and Karen Rocheteau

People always came in with the people they loved, says Treboux.

Its the greatest dining room in New York.

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Photo: Gentl + Hyers

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Photo: Gentl + Hyers