This conversation has been edited and condensed.
You must be quite proud.
Also, Im not sure I have the time.
Photo: ANDAM Fashion Awards Paris
But the widespread recognition of past winnerslike Anthony, whos now running a major house, is validating.
The pride I feel is collective, for what fashion represents now.
Did you ever imagine ANDAM would become so influential?
The 33rd ANDAM Prize Awards.
I didnt think of myself as a precursor then, but Ive always been kind of a free radical.
The 33rd ANDAM Prize Awards.
What makes the ANDAM prize special, beyond the prize money?
Its the only one that brings all the fashion actors together.
Everyones invested in the outcome.
All the industry players are involved.
For a designer its about moving beyond the show calendar and upgrading what they want to make.
Theres an energy that rises above a group mentality; its a guarantee for the exceptionality of French fashion.
People who buy luxury want to see newness, agility, something thats beyond marketing.
Throwback: in what context did ANDAM take shape?
A whole fashion ecosystem was taking shape, but it wasnt really about emerging talents.
So early on I wanted to focus on that.
Where did fashion sit in the cultural landscape?
They were more about the show; they werent armed to be managers.
On a personal note, what designers were you wearing then, and did you hang onto those things?
How did Pierre Berge become your mentor?
He had that reputation of being tough, but he put a kind of blind confidence in me.
I remember saying to myself, Oh my god, now this thing has to stay on track.
He was really generous, but we always used the formal vous.
I kept a respectful distance.
In terms of candidates, whats changed the most, aside from living in a digital world?
Above all, young designers in the 1980s and 90s werent managers.
It wasnt a very organized industry.
Designers did it all.
Thats changed with all these specialized management degrees.
Pierre used to say all the time, you need a counterpart.
Yves [Saint Laurent] on his own was complicated; there was always that idea of partnership.
The Belgians tended to be much more focused on a relationship with objects, fashion as an object.
Now its easier to start and to show.
Theres a whole system in place.
Everything depends on how youre going to put your brand out there.
Has ANDAM changed its criteria in terms of sustainability?
I think that the French textile industry is the greenest one out there.
I think were rather exemplary, and the big groups are investing in it enormously.
So youre optimistic about the future?
Where do you think the prize will be in five years?
Well be even stronger.
Well be an incubator with a program thats even more dense.
Well be even more efficient in terms of mentoring.
And well be awarding even more funds.
What do people perhaps not know about you?
I never considered pursuing design but Ive always been craftsy.
If you could, is there any advice youd give to your younger self?
Ive always been fairly shy and reserved.
Looking back, I regret not accepting Pierres invitation to visit him at his villa in Tangiers.
But I think he respected me for that.
