This was also the moment Andre Courregess graphic and artistic fashions were everywhere.
I loved boththe classic and the modern.
Rather than going to fashion design school, Gaultier considered idiosyncratic filmmakers like William Klein andJohn Watershis teachers.

Photo: Chia Chong / Courtesy of SCAD
Because I learned fashion from looking, I think I was more free, says Gaultier.
I owe my vocation to the cinema.
It is guest-curated by Gaultier with La Cinematheque francaises Matthieu Orlean and Florence Tissot.

The French poster for Jacques Becker’sFalbalas(orParis Frills)
That is why my fashion shows were always a bit cinematic.
This dress is from the couture collection Divine Jacqueline that was dedicated toComptesse Jacqueline de Ribes.
It was inspired by her style but also by one of the dresses fromFalbalas.

Black pleated taffeta Ottoman dress, ivory tulle. Outfitinspired by a creation by Marcel Rochas, seen in the final fashion show inFalbalas
I love to play with the masculine/feminine.
She was there early, and I got my courage up and went to talk to her.
And a couple of years later, she did.
Actress Victoria Abril and Pedro Almodóvar on the set ofKika(1993)
The Blond Ambition tour led to more than 30 years of friendship.
We worked together again for this years tour.
Even though I left fashion, when she calls, I am there for her.

Jean Paul Gaultier, Costume worn by Victoria Abril inKika, by Pedro Almodovar, 1993. El Deseo Madrid. Illustration in the background: Preparatory model for the creation of Victoria Abril’s costume inKikaby Pedro Almodovar, February 9, 1993. Victoria Abril Costume. Illustration by Fabien Esnard-Lascombe. Exhibition print, 2021
Victoria Abril played a gossip journalist, and she would follow her subjects on the motorcycle filming them.
I decided to rework my cone bra using motorcycle headlights.
I must say, though, that the helmet with the camera was Pedros idea.

Jean Paul Gaultier, Sheath dress worn by Gael Garcia Bernal inBad Education (La Mala educación), by Pedro Almodovar, 2003. Cotton stretch tulle, sequins, pearls
Jean Paul Gaultier, Costume worn by Victoria Abril inKika, by Pedro Almodovar, 1993.
Illustration by Fabien Esnard-Lascombe.
Bodies are beautiful but also very graphic.

A still from Rainer Werner Fassbinder’sQuerelle(1982)
I love the graphic aspect of it and that it is a uniform.
That is why I did a skirt for men, but also made a backless navy stripe T-shirt.
Cotton, leather belt.

Jean Paul Gaultier, Open back sailor t-shirt and sailor trousers. Cotton, leather belt. Jean Paul Gaultier, Paris
I have been inspired by the scavenger aesthetic of the films and the way it portrayed technology.
A still fromMad Max(1979)
Jean Paul Gaultier, Look inspired by the filmMad Max.
InWho Are You, Polly Maggoo?,he criticizes the establishment, but its also quite beautiful.

A still fromMad Max(1979)
The metal clothes were supposed to be like Paco Rabannes, but his were more wearable.
Klein exaggerated themthe models are bleeding from the sharpness of the designs.
I love the exaggeration and extremes.

Jean Paul Gaultier, Look inspired by the filmMad Max. Collection Cavaliere et Amazon’s de temps Modernes, ready to wear fall winter 1995-96
I always saw a corset as an armor, and the women wearing it as warriors.
I presented them at my last show in 2020, but the womens corset dates from an 80s collection.
50 years of fashion collection, spring-summer 2020 haute couture, look 78.

50 years of fashion collection, spring-summer 2020 haute couture, look 78. Cotton shirt and pants, metal corset. Jean Paul Gaultier, Paris
Cotton shirt and pants, metal corset.
Jean Paul Gaultier, Paris
50 years of fashion collection, spring-summer 2020 haute couture, look 72.
Cotton shirt, pants and suit jacket, metal corset, metal crown with black muslin veil.

50 years of fashion collection, spring-summer 2020 haute couture, look 72. Cotton shirt, pants and suit jacket, metal corset, metal crown with black muslin veil. Jean Paul Gaultier, Paris
Jean Paul Gaultier, Paris