Algorithm-busting individuality was a message of the season, including at Alessando Micheles Valentino debut.

Photographed by Acielle / Style Du Monde

We made it!

But rarely more so than this year.

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Algorithm-busting individuality was a message of the season, including at Alessando Michele’s Valentino debut. Photographed by Acielle / Style Du Monde

But putting all that angst on the runway is a no-go for many.

Aesthetic danger may be risk enough.

What did everyone else think?Nicole Phelps

Resilience, defiance, joythats Marni in a nutshell right now.

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Resilience, defiance, joy—that’s Marni in a nutshell this season.

Yet fashion isnt art.

Fashion designers must confront the physical limits of the body, whereas artists deal with the boundaries of perception.

And art can be more overtly political, while fashion has become inextricably linked to the people-pleasing entertainment industry.

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Sunnei, one of the brave, talented younger labels who deserve praise for persevering in such a tough environment.

Also the skyrocketing prices in fashion are staggeringwhere does this come from?

Answers tend to be opaque, depending on who you ask.

Who will joyfully spend $1,000 on a white T-shirt (I wont name names)?

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The young Belgian Julie Kegels: smart and thoughtful and witty both in the work and in person.

Is high fashion truly democratic?

Shortly after landing in Milan yesterdayBoom!

Hedi leaves Celine, replaced byMichael Rider, while Filippo Grazioli exits Missoni.

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The power and might of the Saint Laurent heritage came through loud and clear at Anthony Vaccarello’s show for the brand.

It seemed to symbolize not only his personal departure but also be a metaphor for the industrys current state.

Yet, throughout fashion weeks, when designers showcased incredible resilience, almost defiance, it felt truly invigorating.

Oh go on, Tiziana, name names!

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Duran Lantink’s meme-friendly sustainable surrealism makes him an intriguing candidate for houses where the artistic directorship is up for grabs.

But I do agree with so much of what you said.

But you ask yourself where is the room for the independents now?

it’s possible for you to see Chopova Lowenas distinct brand codes becoming the foundation of business stability.

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You can see Chopova Lowena’s distinct brand codes becoming the foundation of business stability.

Placing yourself in aesthetic danger is a beautiful, romantic, devil-may-care idea.

Its also a strategy open chiefly to those who have nothing to lose; i.e.

I really enjoyed Adrian Appiolazas angle intoMoschino, too.

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Jonathan Anderson works for the biggest group of all, but his outlook and output remain as independent and distinct as any designer you can think of.

However the designer whose shows were most intriguing of all, at least to me, was Jonathan Anderson.

Plus, he sells.

That surely is a recipe for joy.Luke Leitch