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The world ofhaute coutureis undeniably fueled by fantasy.
PARIS, FRANCE - JUNE 26: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) Models walk the runway during the Elie Saab Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on June 26, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Lyvans Boolaky/Getty Images)
Think: entirely layered in embroidered, covered in hand-stitched feathers, and all sewn all by hand.
In France, the termhaute coutureis legally protected by the Chambre de commerce et dindustrie de Paris.
And in 2024, its booming.
Rebecca Vanyo and Stéphane Rolland
I have one client who runs the gambit where she will buy whatever speaks to her, says Meader.
The latter is partial to jackets, blouses, bustiers, and pants.
I have noticed youre usually one or the other.
Rebecca Vanyo and Stéphane Rolland
For many, being a couture client comes generationally.
She grew up watching her mother and grandmother buying couture.
Shes originally from Melbourne, Australia but now splits her time between London and New York.
Zofia Krasicki
She is currently in the midst of packing her suitcases.
That was probably the point where I began the journey, so to speak.
Very few people just kind of get into couture by chance, she adds.
Lauren Amos in Iris Van Herpen.
Thats one of my favorite things to domix and match my couture with my everyday wardrobe, she says.
But obviously Im not wearing it every Saturday night or something; that would be ridiculous.
But I will bring [those pieces] out from time to time, lets put it that way.
Lauren Lepire in Givenchy haute couture by Alexander McQueen.
But it really does depend how much work had to go into the creation of the garment.
Theyre not collecting dust.
Im wearing them and theyre cool, one-of-a-kind pieces that no one else has.
Long a fan of fashion, Vanyo began collecting haute couture 10 years ago.
It did feel for me, for a long period of time, almost unattainable.
After the biannual couture shows in Paris, she makes a list of what she likes.
I always immediately know what I like, because those pieces haunt me, she says.
There is a little bit of pressure because they only do one per country.
Likewise, she wears her haute couture to most of her events in her hometown of Columbus, Georgia.
Lauren Amos in Iris Van Herpen.
Also having its own buying boom in the world of couture?
Lepire started scouring for haute couture on eBay in the 90s and never stopped.
Sometimes it doesnt even have a label, and you just know that its couture.
Back in the day I found 20 Chanels on eBay, she says.
I found a lifetime of Diors on eBay.
I mean now its next to impossible.
Its absolutely crazy, lightning-speed with the progress of how much desire there is for these pieces.
Im a very emotional buyer, she says.
Sometimes theres no rhyme or reason to what I love.
Ill also buy things that I know I will never wear just because they are too fragile.
Case in point: her 1930s Chanel couture pieces.
There are Picassos that people hang on their walls, she adds.
Well, now we’re looking at these designers as these great artists.
Now were placing it on our body.
So I get really happy when Im able to look at this thing like a piece of art.
Lauren Lepire in Givenchy haute couture by Alexander McQueen.
Likewise, the renowned vintage sellerJohnny ValenciaofPechuga Vintagehas begun selling vintage couture due to demand.
Its like you have your steady patrons, he says.
When I started this business, I didnt expect us to end here, you know what I mean?
Couture died in the eighties.
But were literally witnessing the revival.
I think the more famous the celebrity, the more frugal the team happens to be, he says.
Who is buying couture?
Strictly private clientswomen that have very successful businesses in my experience.
I love couture because it is unique, he says.
You dont have these special touches in ready-to-wear.
I collect haute couture because to me its a work of art.
Some people collect paintings or sculptures…I collect fashion.
For many, nothing will replace the magic of putting on a couture piece.
Obviously, even beyond the cost barrier, these are garments that require special care.
Vanyo stores all of hers in a climate-controlled specialty location and treads carefully in her most delicate pieces.
This is their lifes work.
Likewise, others see their purchases as future museum pieces.
