But, much like the culture it was born from, the songs roots run much deeper.
Butterfly top and armband by Big Chief Victor Harris of Fi Yi Yi, 2020; Theophilio pants.
Agapornis top; Butterfly skirt by Big Chief Victor Harris of Fi Yi Yi, 2020.
Alay Deng wears “Butterfly” armband by Big Chief Victor Harris of Fi Yi Yi, 2020, Theophilio pants. Ayuol Manyok wears Agapornis top, “Butterfly” skirt by Big Chief Victor Harris of Fi Yi Yi, 2020.
Just over two months into 2025, and its already been a hell of a year for New Orleans.
Not for the first time, the Big Easy has had it hard.
But even when the going gets tough, New Orleanians are known for taking it in stride.
“Butterfly” top and armband by Big Chief Victor Harris of Fi Yi Yi, 2020; Theophilio pants.
And each year during Mardi Gras, they take it to the streets.
Armor is formed of towering feathered suits, adorned with beads and sequins and weighing up to 150 pounds.
The tradition dates back to the 1700s, but theres no neat way to trace its lineage.
Agapornis top; “Butterfly” skirt by Big Chief Victor Harris of Fi Yi Yi, 2020.
And like any good gumbo, the tradition simmers with far-reaching flavors that unite in New Orleans.
Pow Wow wings by Big Chief Troy Young of Algiers Warriors, 2022; Rappaz dress & shoes.
Sneaky Assassin headpiece by Robert Gunsmoke Mayo Jr., 2020; KidSuper dress; Luar shoes.
“Patches” mask by Second Queen Shauna of Pretty White Eagles, 2024; Agapornis skirt and top; Luar shoes.
Thats a story that was told to us, and it was a lie.
This revelation resonated with many maskers and instigated a shift in the culture fueled by intellectual and historical curiosity.
People study now to put the suits on, Melancon explains.
“Pow Wow” wings by Big Chief Troy Young of Algiers Warriors, 2022; Rappaz dress & shoes.
Youngs work now illuminates marginalized histories, like his 2024 Lost Tribes of Florida suits in royal purple.
Theres enough killing going on in the world, says Young.
I try not to promote that through my suits.
“Sneaky Assassin” headpiece by Robert Gunsmoke Mayo Jr., 2020; KidSuper dress; Luar shoes.
Queens like Cherice Harrison-Nelson bead family histories into their suits, including stories of ancestors who were enslaved.
These ceremonial roles serve more than pageantry, explains Nigerian American stylist Alexander-Julian Gibbson.
They are about healing, protection from the unknown, and communion with the spirits.
“Lost Tribes of Florida” headpiece by Big Chief Troy Young of Algiers Warriors, 2024; Oude Waag top; Luar skirt and shoes; Jolipnj rings.
The suits they craft tell storiesof history, of survival, of the here and now.
Their narratives honor the past while claiming space in the present.
Each design is a declaration of identity and a testament to artistry and pride.
“Lost Tribes of Florida” flags by Big Chief Troy Young of Algiers Warriors, 2024; Rappaz dress.
Lost Tribes of Florida flags by Big Chief Troy Young of Algiers Warriors, 2024; Rappaz dress.
The artistry of these suits rivals any haute couture collection; theyre both wearable art and living history.
And the art world is finally taking notice.
Robert Gunsmoke Mayo Jr.
Most still juggle full-time jobs and family responsibilities while spending countless late nights hunched over beadwork.
Suits can cost thousands in materials alone, and to the real ones, no shortcuts are allowed.
I create my suit, I build my suit.
Chief Troy
Im the brains behind my suit.
This devotion transforms craft into spiritual experience on Mardi Gras Day.
When I step out, its a different feeling, he reflects.
Dominique Dilling Francis
All that Ive been working on all year is done.
The spirit has jumped from my needle and thread to inside of me.
This is all done for honor, respect, tradition.
For todays practitioners, this honor carries responsibility.
Each suit must tell a true story; each design must carry meaning.
Each year must outdo the last.
Once you put them big-boy shoes on, you cant take em off, Young affirms.
I dont want to be teaching the wrong thing, he reflects.
I have people that trust me in my tribe.
They trust my leadership.
Special thanks to New Orleans & Co. and Backstreet Cultural Museum.
