Nadege Vanhee left New York for Paris10 years ago.
Tonights show isnt an anniversary collection; still, her New York visit was cause for reflection.
I had to give a lot, because they were really starting their DNA.
Nadège Vanhee, in NYC.
On what she learned at her jobs pre-Hermes:
Mary-Kate and Ashley?
Martin Margiela before Gaultier was a sort of chiropractor or osteopath.
The house had gone in every direction and he really helped to consolidate the fundamentals.
Hermès, fall 2024 ready-to-wear
And with Christophe Lemaire [her immediate predecessor], I didnt want to look too much.
I naturally looked more toward the women who designed for Hermes.
On being a woman designer:
Gender is tricky.
Hermès, spring 2024 ready-to-wear
When youre a writer, you’re able to write a female character if youre male.
I always get annoyed when we have to justify.
Yes, equality is great, but it doesnt make me a better designer because Im female.
Hermès, fall 2023 ready-to-wear
I do see this conversation about women designers happening.
But women voting was like what 80 years ago [in France].
I mean, women having bank accounts in France only happened in the 70s.
What I see in fashion is just a reflection of that.
There is a lot more to do.
On function over form:
The house is really about transmission.
You acquire something and know youre going to wear it and know youre going to transmit to your children.
Theres also this idea of anchor.
People feel this is a stable object.
Theres this Hermes motto: designing objects that really help the user everyday, this concept of being functional.
And I think when you think about functionality, youre always relevant.
On never looking back:
I dont look back.
I like to look ahead.
Theres always things that we havent resolved and you push them further.
Over these 10 years, you’re able to definitely see an evolution in the silhouette.
It has sharpened, but its playful and quite empathic.
Theres this great synergy.
Its not just the ready-to-wear.
Its a very interesting moment for Hermes, I think we have the right people at the right place.
