Theres a saying amongOscarsKremlinologists that the Academy doesnt reward the best actingit rewards themostacting.
When it comes to costumes, though, the Academys favor is also guided by another factor: history.
This years crop of best-costume nominees isnt doing much to buck that trend.
Cillian Murphy inOppenheimer,Emma Stone inPoor Things,Joaquin Phoenix inNapoleon,Lily Gladstone inKillers of the Flower Moon,and Margot Robbie inBarbie.
But in 2024, do those parameterswhich celebrate beauty above all elsestill constitute what makes costuminggreat?
Jacqueline Wests workon Martin ScorsesesKillers of the Flower Moondeserves special mention, too.
And thats without mentioning some of the more egregious oversights from previous years.
Margot Robbie inBarbie.
(Were still seeing the ripple effects of Lydia Tars wardrobe on the runways to this day.)
(Just takethe peachy, puff-sleeve Vuitton gown she woreto theBAFTAs.)
Its informed by history, sure, but it also rebels against it.
Vanessa Kirby as Empress Josephine and Joaquin Phoenix as Napoleon Bonaparte inNapoleon.
Its attuned to the shifting sands of contemporary fashion, while not beholden to it.
Maybejust maybein future years, they can all be given their due?
Lily Gladstone as Mollie Burkhart inKillers of the Flower Moon.
Tom Conti as Albert Einstein and Cillian Murphy as J. Robert Oppenheimer inOppenheimer.
Rosamund Pike as Elspeth inSaltburn.
Archie Madekwe as Farleigh inSaltburn.
Cate Blanchett as Lydia Tár inTár.
Photo: Courtesy of Searchlight Pictures
