FALL 2024 MENSWEAR Theres a lot below the surface in Y-3s marriage of fashion and activewear. This is the second consecutive that the teams at Yohji Yamamoto and Adidas have surfaced that tension. A step in the DIY topography of you wear the logo, the logo doesnt wear you. There were also attached sleeves that could be worn over the arms or as a scarf. We worked a lot into space on the body and controlling that space between the body and the garment....
This is too much to ask for when it comes to fashion. The 032c ready-to-wear label debuted on the runway today in Paris. For fall, Koch said that she wanted to develop a versatile urban uniform. The tailoring too could use a little finesse, both in terms of cut and more identifiable proportions. 032c has a signature aesthetic, its accompanying label should harness it and push it forward. But this collection isnt necessarily ahistorical either....
American style is about day-to-day life, a solution design. What might happen if the preciousness of couture was re-spun into something more accessibleand ultimately American? Similarly, a leather coat was printed with herringbone, and another was debossed to look like denim. Another solution: shortening a tail coat and adding side slits so it can dance. Its the specialness in craft that makes 4SDesigns one to watch.
FALL 2024 MENSWEAR Alexandre Mattiussis new blonde hair? Blame it on Rio. Everything else in this grand-scale Ami show, however, was as French as can be. But not trying too hard.
The set was loosely staged after the auditorium of a movie theater from the talkies era. So theyre dressing up but still being themselves. The results played out as finely as the jazz clarinetsmoothon an excellent soundtrack. Jacquards depicted Old Hollywood landmarks. There was a new house monogram that had its own historical echoes. Skate sneakers, luxe-grungy cardigan knits and jeweled beanies were amongst the fresher generational accents. Theres that feeling of mystery in waiting to see what comes next....
Anyone who wears glasses knows how harrowing it is to findthe right frames. (Or, arguably more important since you only wear a wedding dress once.) Glasses, of course, arent above the whims of the fashion cycles that be. Gotham Nowadays, thanks to their cultural reemergence, these frames have a newfound reputation. Another adopter is model and singerGabbriette, who has become something of the looks patron saint on social media. Even Kim Kardashian has taken note....
I think todays consumer is captivated by a single product. People see something on social media or on a celebrity. And so that piece has to say everything about the brand. A more subtle, nuanced kind of branding. I think thats the moment were in. Theres a capacious trench-bag for example, that has a pocket and strap that resembles coat components. The overall sentiment that we wanted to give was a kind of relaxed outdoorsy elegance....
FALL 2024 READY-TO-WEAR A lot has changed for CDLMs Chris Peters in the last year. Taking his words literally, there was indeed a sense of interconnectedness evident in this collection. Its ease gave way to an unimpeachable elegance. Elegance, in fact, may be the best word for Peterss latest offering. My daytime work clothes versus my wind-down clothes.
He started and ended with elongated, black tailored coats in silhouettes that made every model seem improbably tall. They were also wearing black, almost slipper-like leather shoes. Which gave us unexpected styling point number one: they werent trainers. Are formal shoes really making a comeback after so many years? Such small things herald big shifts in mens fashion. Then there were the unexpected marriages between textiles and generic garment templates....
(Yes, she does make her own.) It could have gone completely gimmicky. Also, earthy roasted and brewed shades are universally flattering. They come with a futuristic 3D-molded sole, an add-on informed by another traditional teapot. In a season defined by stompers, those might just catch on.
Ive always tried to make my voice rise above the noise of trends, she said.
War was always something that your father and grandfather talked about, he said during a showroom visit. Now, for the first time, its my generation. But in the end, he discovered that distance actually gave him a form of freedom. I felt like I could deform things without breaking any rules, he said. Speaking of status, his ongoing collaboration with Reebok brings a reworking of a classic, 90s-era brutalist sneaker....
FALL 2024 MENSWEAR The tip of a hair on a paintbrush is called its toe. The models then walked past us wearing them. You could soon see the relationship between the artists curved, color-filled brushstrokes and the pleats they decorated. The clothes became more complex, swaddling the wearers, integrating them. Some carried what resembled (and indeed were) pillows, but which were stuffed with compacted pleated coats. These were clothes you could rest upon or within....
