But rather than mourn, Jensen was in a celebratory mood.
He cast only models over-45 and they danced and made hay at his presentation.
I like the idea of people with knowledge and wisdom and a life behind them, he explained.
Yours Truly by Peter Jensen
While Jensens work can be pretty, its never straightforwardly so.
The trench capes are also hirsute and their sleeves are inverted.
Somethings off, and thats how the designer likes things.
Earth friendly these pieces may be, but the imagination behind them is unbound.
In other words, theres a lot of emphasis on making.
There was something nostalgic about the designs of Victor Valentin Tschudi who used traditional techniques to make them.
Benedicte MacGregors silhouettes were narrow, an exception among womens wear collections that largely embraced volume and femininity.
Countering this romanticism, Sofie Tschenka secured a light chiffon dress with a sleek, weapon-like sculptural metal pin.
Though her work was confident with a take-no-prisoners seductiveness, her design signatures had not quite gelled.
There was great inventiveness in this collection of convertible garments.
Bonnetje: NSFW
Even in our casual age, a mans suit and shirt remain symbolic.
One of the things they represent is a right way of doing things.
Theyre back for spring 2025 as part of the weeks One to Watch initiative.
At their presentation models walked into an airport-like labyrinth.
The designers said they were thinking about how clothes are worn, and packed, for travel.
A briefcase clasp was used as a closure on a suit, and its handles appeared on shoes.
The twisted and pulled pieces were a nice development which show that these two are fast tracking forward.
These were in dramatic contrast to the ladylike looks especially.
Even so, it was the cast that stole the show.
It was beautiful to see.
Deadwood: Only Happy When It Rains?
Co-founders Felix von Bahder and Carl Ollson arent the jolliest of fellows when it comes to their aesthetic.
At the show, models made their way over cobblestones set between yellow brick buildings in Copenhagens meatpacking district.
The last year has been a challenging one, both professionally and for me personally, von Bahder messaged.
This place became the perfect metaphor for the mental quarters of which I had become an inhabitant….
He was abetted in that mission by the weather, a perfect blue-sky day.
Its worth remembering that a tiny mouse can scare a gigantic elephant.
This is the third in a series of collections in which the designer has charted her transition.
Last seasons rebirth evolved into this ones after theme.
Its a very romantic and hopeful collection, Rothschild said.
Sol Hansdottir: Sewing Circles
Antidisciplinary is how London-based Icelandic designer Sol Hansdottir has described her practice.
Like a childrens story book of a medieval romance (note the caps with pointy ears).
The designer works on a made-to-order basis and she is passionate about her craft.
I make everything by hand, she explained.
If I had multiple selves or more hands, I would love to absolutely create everything.
That passion was palpable, and best expressed in the draped jersey pieces and a linen corset jacket.
Stem: Pulling Strings
Stem designer Sarah Brunnhuber is a woman on a mission.
The hero piece was a woven rugby-style shirt.
