The CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund is a whirlwind experience for the finalists.
Three weeks ago, they found out they had been chosen.
The dress is sold before its made, and is personal to the client.
The 2024 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalists
Is there someone in the industry whose career trajectory you look up to?Rick Owens.
What does American fashion mean to you?I feel that American fashion has no boundaries.
Is this your first time applying for the Fashion Fund?
Grace Ling
What drove you to apply?Its my third time applying!
Persistence in this industry is imperative to survival.
My collections follow themes of daily life and the mundane, McKnight said.
Ling’s sense of humor was evident when she described a white dress with a seemingly burnt-out hem, saying, “It’s a simple, slinky dress that you wear out—but you’re also scorched.”
I find their commitment to refinement and creating the best overall product inspiring.
What does American fashion mean to you?American fashion is inherently diverse.
Even within our own CVFF class, its so impressive to learn about my peers and hear their stories.
Connor McKnight
She passed away 29 years ago this year, five days after her 21st birthday.
It seems we are carrying the torch for her.
Using fashion as a way to honor her memory.
“My collections follow themes of daily life and the mundane,” McKnight said.
Is this your first time applying for the Fashion Fund?
What drove you to apply?This was our first time.
We were absolutely ready.
Dynasty and Soull Ogun
How do you navigate the precariousness of the wholesale/retail landscape as a small brand?We are primarily direct-to-consumer.
That made us pivot to make our own way, and its definitely working.
What does American fashion mean to you?Many eras of new and old merging together.
“It’s all about love,” they said as Mickalene Thomas modeled their wares.
The melting pot of immigrant experiences creating an amalgamation of style.
I initially pursued a business degree, but my desire to explore fashion led me to SCAD.
I remember on the first day of class, my professor asked us to bring a fabric manipulation.
Kate Barton
Not knowing what she meant, I googled the term and took it literally.
I enjoy the challenge of creating something completely original that is also sellable.
Im in it for the long run.
The “metal” plate on Barton’s bustier is actually made of leather—and is easily snapped on or off.
The metal plate on Bartons bustier is actually made of leatherand is easily snapped on or off.
Additionally, I have respect forSandy Liangand her remarkable achievements with her brand in a short period.
I think of full lifestyle brands with a strong contemporary feel.
Spencer Phipps
On the other hand, American fashion successfully merges pop culture with fashion.
Also at the timewhich was 2018nobody was really exploring corporate responsibility, and sustainability.
Was this your first time applying to the Fashion Fund?
“This sweater is famous—Jake Gyllenhaal wore it on SNL recently,” Phipps explained. “This isn’t the same one, though. I let him keep it.”
What made you decide to apply?Its my first time.
I applied out of necessity.
I started the business when I was in Europe.
Presley Oldham
After I worked at Dries I moved to Paris and I set up the business there.
Were about a year-and-a-half into it and its been really hard, to be honest.
Its a struggle, financially, and the mentorship and the money would make a big difference.
As Oldham placed his jewelry on the judges’ table, Thom Browne remarked, “Oh! I thought they were snacks!” To which the young designer replied, “They can be!”
This sweater is famousJake Gyllenhaal wore it on SNL recently, Phipps explained.
This isnt the same one, though.
I let him keep it.
Husband-and-wife duo Sebastien and Marianne Amisial.
We were doing market in Paris and then we just stopped.
So were really building up a strong community and maybe later we can return to wholesale.
Its real clothes for real people.
The duo showed off a gray hoodie they developed early on. “Bad Bunny has about seven of our gray hoodies—and that’s just from this year!,” they reported.
I think its about communities and just useful shit made really fucking well.
Was this your first time applying to the Fashion Fund?
What drove you to apply?It was my second time.
Taylor Thompson
For me, the mentorship is a really big factor.
Since I started the brand during the pandemic, it was a very solitary effort.
As Oldham placed his jewelry on the judges table, Thom Browne remarked, Oh!
Though his clothes are labeled as “menswear” Thompson pointed out they’re really for everyone. “It’s 2024!” he added matter-of-factly.
I thought they were snacks!
To which the young designer replied, They can be!
Similarly,Anna Suiis a big inspiration for me.
Jane Wade
Shes stuck to her guns for 30-plus years at this point.
you’re able to look at a piece and you’re able to just tell its hers.
And then I also loveAlexis Bittars work.
Showing off a pair of her best-selling jeans, Wade noted that she added a “curved seam” to accommodate “female bodies,” but left the inseam a little bit longer so “men can also wear them.”
I think hes making work that has mass appeal, but also a very distinct point of view.
Both Taylor and the character she played had a certain association with jewelry that is longstanding.
So that would be fun.
Jackson Wiederhoeft
Husband-and-wife duo Sebastien and Marianne Amisial.
We had an event and Marianne was bartending.
What made you want to get into fashion?Marianne: I grew up ice skating.
As a judge commented on the weight of a heavily embellished dress Wiederhoeft added, “It’s the only dress I have that’s ever broken one of my hangers!”
My moms an interior designer and shes always been super artistic and creative.
I was like 16 years old, buying from Nicole Miller, it was magical!
Sebastien: I grew up as an illustrator and a painter.
By the time I was in high school I started getting into Japanese street fashion and skating.
At the time I was doing a lot of Manga drawings.
Was this your first time applying to the Fashion Fund?
What drove you to apply?Marianne: This is the fourth time we applied.
Sebastien: Weve had a really big year; working on special projects, working with celebrities.
The duo showed off a gray hoodie they developed early on.
Bad Bunny has about seven of our gray hoodiesand thats just from this year!, they reported.
We had an order from a big retailer and it almost killed our businessto be completely honest with you.
The way that shes been able to scale her business in such an organic way.
I also love that they both started small.
From Duke Ellington: If it means anything at all, it means freedom of expression.
From Louis Amrstrong: If you dont know it by now, you probably never will.
So Ive been working in the industry since I was about 18 or 19 years old.
From the beginning I always felt like a student to the game.
Was this your first time applying to the Fashion Fund?
What made you decide to apply?It was my second year.
I always felt like its something thats a big step forward for any young designer.
Its kind of like you have to shoot your shot a little bit and see whats possible.
I think that theres a point where you have to be like, you know what?
If you want to behere,you got to be there.
And I think that that was always in the back of my head.
Though his clothes are labeled as menswear Thompson pointed out theyre really for everyone.
Its about knowing youre going to have to run a race and build on that.
From her work as a designer to how shes built Dover Street Market with Adrian Joffe.
Her work is always top-tier.
I feel like its the place for all of American fashion to come to represent themselves.
I think for me theres an aspect of streetwear to it, but its also very dynamic and wide-ranging.
I think its about freedom and expression.
When I was young I had these beading magazines and I would bead and make jewelry.
I went to art school thinking I would be a fine artist, like a painter or an illustrator.
Was this your first time applying to the Fashion Fund?
What made you decide to apply?I hired a PR person last year.
And I knew that having really good PR would help me expedite where I wanted to go.
In our original plan I would apply to the Fund maybe two or three years in.
But the track is moving at its own pace.
I love the fact that she had an unsuccessful business and then tried it again.
I did that first collection as a sort of test.
I did a second collection and then Covid happened and I thought, Ok, Im locked in.
It really helped us transform from this fledgling business into one that could really exist in the fashion conversation.
Were just taking it slow and working with key partners.
But it’s hard to compete with the Glenn Close adaptation.
