MAKE AND MODELMy whole project is to subvert the idea of value, says Diotimas Rachel Scott.

Craft is the true meaning of luxurynot place or pedigree.

Photo: Deirdre Lewis.

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ANGLE OF REPOSEThe Belgian designer Julie Kegels charmed Paris at her second-ever show last September with surf-inspired, city-ready pieces infused with a sly wit. Photo: Courtesy of Julie Kegels/photo by Tom Délaissé.Vogue, March 2025.

As it turns out, what comes around goes around (and around).

It took nearly six years for Philo to reemerge after exiting Celine.

Scott, who launched her label in 2021, is still the only full-time employee at her brand.

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MAKE AND MODEL“My whole project is to subvert the idea of value,” says Diotima’s Rachel Scott. “Craft is the true meaning of luxury—not place or pedigree.” Photo: Deirdre Lewis.

(Scott studied at the Istituto Marangoni and worked at Costume National.)

That was only possible in New Yorkin Americawhere theres more openness.

Photo: Courtesy of Aldo Buscalferri - Matto Studio, Paris.

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TRUE COLORS“I hope there’s a generational shift as the world evolves and that, if we just keep making the work, people will see it,” says Colleen Allen. Photo: Courtesy of Aldo Buscalferri - Matto Studio, Paris.

Anxiety comes with the job of an emerging designer, of course.

The three women all agree that the biggest hurdle they face is cash flow.

So much of being independent is working with limitations.

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POP LIKE THISSouth African singer Tyla in one of Rachel Scott’s intricately crocheted Diotima dresses. Photographed by Justin French.Vogue, April 2024.

Even better is communicating with these women one-on-one.

What else keeps them forging ahead?

Just how big their goals are.

POP LIKE THISSouth African singer Tyla in one of Rachel Scotts intricately crocheted Diotima dresses.

Photographed by Justin French.Vogue, April 2024.

Scott says she can imagine taking a corporate job one day.

People might not recognize that its there, but my whole project is to subvert the idea of value.

Im saying [that] craft is the true meaning of luxurynot place or, lets say, pedigree.