This bridge between past and present was also present in Solitude Studioss collection.
Designers Jonas Sayed Gammal Bruun and Sophia Martinussen blended ancient inspiration with the modern; think viking-meets-grunge-meets-organicore.
For me Solitude represents some kind of Scandinavian punk.
“Asymmetrically draped hooded vest, made in ‘old dyed’ faded cotton canvas, with seaweed deatailing along the seams, and sewn-in striped crochet piece. Styled with crochet scarf identical to the piece on the vest, a double ‘melted’ flannel dress underneath, spray dyed stockings and upcycled plateau high-heeled boots decorated with coins and bead work.”
Bruun and Martinussen did their homework, but you dont need to understand the symbolism to appreciate the clothes.
Where the Cypriot interred, these Danes submerged their fabrics as one leg of a round-trip journey.
Hope is to be found in the possibility of resurfacing and regenerating, and thats what Solitude Studios delivered.
“Striped crocheted and wet felted vest with ‘eaten’ effect, slithering placket and tassel detailing; worn over flannel shirt with an over-size screenprinted cheesecloth collar. Striped lightweight cotton trousers with green muslin wedges and seaweed details sewn in the seams. Styled with wet felted crochet scarf around the waist, and rusty string covered leather boots.”
The designers sat down to discuss their mission and the fabrication of their fall collection.
We use it to reflect upon the world.
Your approach to sustainability seems unique.
“Rust-red crocheted and wet felted top with checkered pattern continuing despite ‘eaten’ effect. Black-and-white checkered wool distorted miniskirt, with curly raw wool wet felted wedges and altered hemline. Piece dyed with red and orange splashes. Styled with iron dyed silk bag covered in peat-bog dyed cotton pieces. Suede boots draped with chains and coins.”
Tell me more about it.We view sustainability as a matter of course, not a selling point.
Any way or shape, really.
And we try not to judge or take sides, just highlight a curiosity.
“Cropped trench jacket, draped to twist around the left side of the body pushing the side seam to the front. The jacket is sewn with an outer layer of peat-bog dyed canvas and lined with a houndstooth wool gamp. The seam allowance is cut from the outer layer to contour the jackets layers. Worn with viscose pants, screenprinted with metallic bronze shades and styled with a ‘withered’ version of our Essence Bag, in checkered oilskin and with orange seaweed. Suede ‘oxidized’ wedge heels.”
Nature is everything, even chance and luck.
All of our collections have been tales from different points of view on this matter.
Questioning alienation is definitely a way of trying to change the point of view of how we see it.
“Cotton flannel shirt cut open from front to back and twistedly draped with biastape details and tassels, over hand-painted silk shirt. Worn with moving blanket miniskirt ‘melting’ waistband construction, continuing down and around the bottom of the skirt, and tilted open-faced welt pockets. Styled with spray dyed ‘moldy’ tights, screenprinted military canvas bag, rust dyed cheesecloth headscarf, ‘oxidized’ hair exentions and ankle boots covered in strings and coins.”
(See ourseaweed bagfor example.)
The bog is near Sophias childhood home.
Remembering this story made her realize that we could in fact dye our clothes there.
“‘Shearling’ jacket made from peat-bog dyed wool that is draped to twist around the left side of the body pushing the side seam to the front. Welt pocket detail on left front piece. The jacket is lined with a screenprinted textured cotton. Linen pants with pocket cutout and dark green screenprint detailing. Styled with cotton flannel shirt buttoned around the waist, screenprinted wool socks and military boots decorated with string, beadwork and coins.”
All of the fabric we put in there is made of natural fibers and the fabric definitely decomposes.
If we leave them for too long they simply vanish!
It takes us two full days to clean each fabric after retrieving it from the bog.
“Don’t Hate Meditate T-shirt with ‘moldy’ dye effect, lightweight checkered linen hoodie with ‘moldy’ dyed cheesecloth edges worn with black & white checkered wool pants with tilted open-faced welt pockets, and draped width- turned-string constructed into the front leg, tied around the ankle. Styled with wet felted crochet scarf in green and sage brushed alpaca yarn, and rusty strings with coins attached tied around the ankles.”
Our hopes in hibernation.
Its as if the things we do in everyday life to feel goodto feel anythingare surreal, simulated somehow.
The instincts and needs are real, but the places to fulfill them arent adequate.
“Dark magenta wet felted crochet shawl in silk and brushed alpaca, draped around the body and held in its place by red virgin wool bodice with a vertically twisted construction shoulder detail, hook closure and hooked-up drapings in the bottom. Dark red oilskin mini skirt with ‘melting’ waistband construction, continuing down and around the bottom of the skirt, and tilted open-faced welt pockets. Styled with red graphic stockings, coin bracelet, altered horse halter belt decorated with ‘oxidized’ puff bars and purple wedge heel ankle boots with coins and beadwork detailing.”
A cliche example of this is shopping as a means to dopamine.
Do you ever really feel fulfilled, once you accomplish that thing you wanted to?
When do you feel most fulfilled?
“Cropped jacket made from moving blankets, with tucked and screenprinted cheesecloth detailing on collar, sleeves and pockets. Gaping pocket construction creating a lived-in expression. Worn over off-white hoodie with cheesecloth edges. Tapered turquoise canvas pants with printed cheesecloth draping from back to front in a fluid expression. Styled with bag crocheted from upcycled cheesecloth and ‘oxidized’ leather shoes.”
These are questions we have been very curious about.
You spoke about spirituality in your show notes.
This interview has been edited and condensed for clarity.
“Asymmetrical hooded dress made in rust printed rib, with hooked-up drapings, peat-bog dyed cotton appliqué and grey crochet silk strip made from small circular shapes imitating those of barnacles. Boots covered in similar crocheted material to that of dress and spray dyed with dark shades of orange. Styled with rusty string necklace covered in coins.”
Striped lightweight cotton trousers with green muslin wedges and seaweed details sewn in the seams.
Styled with wet felted crochet scarf around the waist, and rusty string covered leather boots.
Rust-red crocheted and wet felted top with checkered pattern continuing despite eaten effect.
“Deconstructed double-placketed wet felted crochet cardigan made from turquoise alpaca and yak yarn, with covered buttons. Worn over hand painted striped silk shirt and wide-hip cotton draped pant. Styled with silk mohair crochet beanie, round glasses, distressed leather bound book and checkered screenprinted scarf from same material as the buttons.”
Black-and-white checkered wool distorted miniskirt, with curly raw wool wet felted wedges and altered hemline.
Piece dyed with red and orange splashes.
Styled with iron dyed silk bag covered in peat-bog dyed cotton pieces.
“Rust dyed cheesecloth wrap dress with hip cutout and one oversize sleeve, worn with striped wet felted crochet wool top with ’eaten’ effect and striped lightweight cotton pants. Styled with metallic screenprinted cheesecloth crochet bag, ‘oxidized’ high-heeled sneakers and ‘oxidized’ headphones.”
Suede boots draped with chains and coins.
The jacket is sewn with an outer layer of peat-bog dyed canvas and lined with a houndstooth wool gamp.
The seam allowance is cut from the outer layer to contour the jackets layers.
“Bleached staple Don’t Hate Meditate T-shirt underneath purple flannel shirt with two-tone bias-tape drapings hanging in open panel on right side. Styled with dark magenta wet felted crochet head-scarf, upcycled cheesecloth crochet belt and coin strings tied around the ankles. Purple cotton twill pants with tilted open-faced welt pockets, and draped width-turned-string constructed into the front leg tied around the ankle.”
Suede oxidized wedge heels.
Welt pocket detail on left front piece.
The jacket is lined with a screenprinted textured cotton.
“Reversed ‘shearling’ jacket made from a screenprinted textured cotton. Draped to twist around the right side of the body pushing the side seam to the front. The jacket is lined with peat-bog dyed wool. Worn with peat-bog dyed cotton jersey half-dress over checkered metallic printed minishirts. Styled with ‘moldy’ striped tights, bronze metallic printed crochet wool spats, green metallic printed lace bra and brown oilskin takeout bag with screenprint and fishnet detailing.”
Linen pants with pocket cutout and dark green screenprint detailing.
Cropped jacket made from moving blankets, with tucked and screenprinted cheesecloth detailing on collar, sleeves and pockets.
Gaping pocket construction creating a lived-in expression.
Worn over off-white hoodie with cheesecloth edges.
Tapered turquoise canvas pants with printed cheesecloth draping from back to front in a fluid expression.
Styled with bag crocheted from upcycled cheesecloth and oxidized leather shoes.
Boots covered in similar crocheted material to that of dress and spray dyed with dark shades of orange.
Styled with rusty string necklace covered in coins.
Deconstructed double-placketed wet felted crochet cardigan made from turquoise alpaca and yak yarn, with covered buttons.
Worn over hand painted striped silk shirt and wide-hip cotton draped pant.
Styled with metallic screenprinted cheesecloth crochet bag, oxidized high-heeled sneakers and oxidized headphones.
Reversed shearling jacket made from a screenprinted textured cotton.
Draped to twist around the right side of the body pushing the side seam to the front.
The jacket is lined with peat-bog dyed wool.
Worn with peat-bog dyed cotton jersey half-dress over checkered metallic printed minishirts.
