Nerves loop-de-looped in my stomach as the jaguar slinked toward a herd of capybaras.
Up in our safari truck, I could barely breathe.
The jaguar lunged; the capybaras barked a warning, then zipped into the water.

Photo: Felipe Castellari
The big cat chased and chased before finally giving up.
Yet this was different.
This morningsPlanet Earth-level drama unfolded in a lesser-known yet budding safari getaway: Brazil.

A female jaguar crossing the Cuiaba River in the Pantanal region of Brazil.
Many visit South Americas largest country for itsscenic beachesandhopping Carnival.
At the time, there was no concept of ecotourism, he says.
During Caimans early days, Klabin saw few if any jaguars.

The lounge area at Casa Caiman.
These days, nearly 100 percent of guests spot at least one jaguar during their stay.
The Caiman experience isnt just about seeing animals, though.
Guests join Oncafari conservationists on safari drives to learn about the wildlife preservation strategies firsthand.

The pool area at Casa Caiman.
Thats the beauty of ecotourism, she says.
It gives opportunity for all people.
Over 10,000 speciesaround 5 percent of the worlds animals and plantsinhabit the 772,000-square-mile Cerrado.

A safari drive in the Caiman Ecological Refuge.
Not only is it Earths most biodiverse savanna, its also critical to the future of our planet.
Yet industrial agriculture, largely for soybeans, has destroyed more than 60 percent of the Cerrado wilderness.
The NGO operates out of Fazenda Trijuncaoa ranch that, like Caiman, centers on conservation and sustainability.

Vinícius Rozendo Vianna, a local guide and birding expert, on a birding hike at Pousada Trijunção.
Perhaps the greatest adventure, though, was our search for the maned wolf.
A safari in Brazil isnt as established as, say, the Serengeti or Okavango Delta.
Nothing is guaranteed, and to me, thats largely the allure.

A communal area at Pousada Trijunção.
Brazil safaris arent about ticking every box on a safari checklist.